Amsterdam is a city that opens its secrets only to those who take the time to explore. During the day it’s bustling, bicycles whizz past, boats glide along the canals and people chat happily in cafes. But on a rainy night the city takes on a completely different look. Wet stones glisten in the torchlight and the city shows you a different side. On just such a night, as I was walking through the narrow streets, I stumbled upon a door that introduced me to a brand new beauty. Begijnhof Courtyard.
The noise of the city disappeared the moment I stepped inside. In front of me, in the very center of Amsterdam, stood a centuries-old refuge of history, faith and peace.
History of Begijnhof: The Lives of Free and Religious Women
Begijnhof is one of the oldest courtyards in Amsterdam and its origins date back to the 14th century. It was a community for religious women called Beguine. Although these women lived a life similar to nuns, the major difference was that they did not take vows of poverty or obedience for life. Instead of living in a closed order like a convent, they could leave the community at any time, marry or return to normal life.
These women lived in modest houses surrounding a courtyard and made their living through prayer, charity work and caring for the sick. Most of them supported themselves by working as teachers, nurses or seamstresses. In this way, they were one of the first independent women’s communities in Europe.
Over time, Begijnhof became an integral part of Amsterdam. Despite the noisy markets and bustling streets outside the city, it is a center of peace and quiet. Walking in the rain I realized that even after centuries this peace is still felt.
The Last Wooden House in Amsterdam: Houten Huis
One of the most striking buildings in Begijnhof is the Houten Huis (Wooden House), a house built around 1528. It is one of the oldest wooden houses in Amsterdam and one of the last examples of an architectural style that is now almost non-existent in the city.
In the past, all houses in Amsterdam were made of wood, but due to massive fires, the construction of such structures was banned. Today, the Houten Huis stands as one of the few remnants of the city as it was in the Middle Ages.
The Secret Church Sanctuary of Forbidden Faith
Although Amsterdam is known for tolerance today, in the past religious freedom was not for everyone. During the 16th century Reformation, Catholicism was outlawed and Catholic churches were either destroyed or taken over by Protestant communities. However, instead of renouncing their faith, Beguine women continued to worship in secret.
That’s why they built the Begijnhof Chapel, a church hidden inside a house. This secret church became one of the most important places of worship of the forbidden Catholic faith in Amsterdam.
Close by is the English Church (Engelse Kerk). Dating back to the 17th century, this Protestant church is one of Begijnhof’s two places of worship that represent the historic balance between religions.
In the dim light inside the church, I sat in the old wooden pews and felt the atmosphere. With centuries of prayers, the smell of old books and flickering candlelight, it was a silent testament to the determination and commitment of Beguine women to their faith.
Who lives in Begijnhof today?
Even though the last Beguine died in 1971, Begijnhof remains a women-only living space. The women who live here today continue to preserve its peaceful and spiritual atmosphere.
The doors are open to visitors, but they are reminded that this is a private living space, not a tourist spot. For this reason, they are asked to be quiet inside. “Please be quiet,” read small signs I saw as I walked by. This is a rare tranquility in a bustling city like Amsterdam.
If you are a traveler who loves history and discovering hidden places, you should definitely visit this place. Open that small door, step inside and let the city’s past whisper to you.
Goodbye
