I can’t help but respect the Vikings who came to Iceland and managed to survive in harsh climatic conditions. How is it that the Vikings managed to survive when we complain about the cold despite all the luxuries we have today, our heated houses and winter clothes.
Sandfell: A Testament to Viking Resilience
In fact, a path I took without any plan brought me to a view I never expected. A ruin resting on an ancient volcano in the southeast of Iceland. A thin stream of water flowing through the black volcanic ashes and a graveyard at the point where the water reaches. If there is a cemetery somewhere, there is a story waiting to be discovered.
Sandfell in the Öræfi region is much more than an abandoned farm. It is a silent narrator of Viking perseverance. According to the Landnámabók (Book of Settlements), Sandfell was founded by Þorgerður, widow of Ásbjörn Heyangur-Bjarnson, who was lost at sea on his way to Iceland. Showing extraordinary determination Þorgerður settled Sandfell with her sons, leading to one of the earliest known female-led settlements in Iceland.
Through all these years Sandfell developed and was home to a church and vicarage until 1931. The farm was completely abandoned in 1947, but Þorgerður’s vision and determination continued to guide future settlers.
Rútshellir Cave House: Legends Carved in Stone
On my way back, the road took me to Rútshellir, a man-made cave near Skógar wrapped in legend and mystery.
The local people have a story about Rútur, an evil chief or possibly a troll who they believe lives in this cave. The story tells how his slaves conspired to kill him but were eventually all killed in their attempt to escape and how this evil chief reached the summit of Eyjafjallajökull before meeting his end in the form of someone named Guðni. A rock called Guðnasteinn was erected to mark his final stand.
Interestingly, there is a carved cross on the ceiling suggesting that the cave may have been used by Irish monks before the Scandinavian settlement. In 1936, German scientists investigated the cave and theorized that it may have been a pagan temple adding another layer to its mysterious history.
It is very difficult to do historical research on the Vikings. Because they did not leave anything written behind. The settlements and artifacts they left behind were destroyed after a while due to the harsh nature of the geography.
Viking Houses – Blending with Nature
Adapting to the harsh environment of Iceland, the Vikings built homes that were both practical and in harmony with nature. Grass-insulated roofs were common, and layers of grass and stone were used to create the insulated walls needed to withstand harsh winters.
When you enter a house, the first thing you notice is the narrow and long rooms instead of large rooms.
Windows as small as possible, both to keep the heat in and to protect against external factors. And roofs covered with grass.
You can also see that in some areas they build their houses a little deeper and with two floors. This is because they use the lower floors as stables for their animals and thus increase the heat inside. When I wrote about the traditional houses in South Korea before, I mentioned the underfloor heating systems with hot water. Here, instead of water, animals are used to heat the environment by breathing.
These architectural choices show us the creativity and adaptability of the Vikings. When the geography is so harsh, we have no choice but to adapt to nature.
A Journey Through Time
Visiting Sandfell and Rútshellir is like stepping back into the Viking Age. As you visit these places, imagine the daily lives of their inhabitants, the challenges they faced, the legends they inspired and the lasting marks they left on the land. These places are not just historical sites but narratives etched into Iceland’s rugged terrain, waiting to be discovered by those who seek them out.
Goodbye
