The DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) in South Korea is not just a border; it is a living memory of one of the most important conflicts of the 20th century, the Korean War. Visiting this unique and fascinating area is like witnessing history, geopolitics and the lingering hopes for peace on one of the world’s most heavily guarded borders.
DMZ was a region that I wanted to visit for a long time but we kept postponing it. As the spring months are just around the corner and the weather is starting to warm up, we planned a short trip to this historical region. Before moving on to the DMZ, the demilitarized zone between the countries of North Korea and South Korea, I would like to talk a little bit about the Korean War.
The Korean War (1950-1953) was a devastating conflict that began when North Korea, with the support of the Soviet Union and China, invaded South Korea. The aim was to unify the peninsula under communist rule. When South Korea launched a counter-attack with the support of the United Nations (UN), led by the United States, the Korean War began, lasting three years and taking the lives of more than 2.5 million people.
From a different perspective, the Korean War was the result of Socialist Russia and Capitalist America fighting for their own interests on the soil of other countries rather than fighting a destructive war on their own soil.
Cities burned on the Korean Peninsula. Families were torn apart. People with a common history and a common language became enemies. Worse, many began to hate each other without even knowing why they were enemies.
Not only America and Russia, but many other countries have taken sides in this war and supported it. One of these countries is Turkiye. Turkiye played an important role in the Korean War and participated as part of the UN forces with 21,212 soldiers (4 brigades in total). The Turkish Brigade, known as the “North Star”, was recognized for its bravery and discipline. It contributed to important fronts such as the Defense of Busan and the Battle of Kunuri.
What is the DMZ?
The DMZ is a 250-kilometer strip of land along the Korean Peninsula that serves as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. It is about 4 kilometers wide and heavily guarded on both sides. There are soldiers, watchtowers and barbed wire along the border.
Imjingak is a park and cultural complex located in Paju, South Korea, about 50 kilometers from Seoul. It was built to console Koreans who had to leave their homes during the Korean War and to represent their hopes for reunification.
It is also one of the closest places to visit in North Korea without special permission.
The Damaged Train Memorial is one of Imjingak’s most iconic landmarks. This train is the rusted remains of a train that was badly damaged during the Korean War. The train was found on the tracks of the Gyeongui Line, which used to connect Seoul and Pyongyang, and is now on display as a memorial. The bullet holes and shrapnel marks are a reminder of the violence of the war.
The Freedom Bridge is a former railroad bridge used for the repatriation of prisoners of war after the Korean War. Although it is no longer functional, it is a powerful symbol of hope for peace and unification.
Mangbaedan was built for North Korean defectors and displaced families to commemorate their ancestors. On major holidays such as Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) or Seollal (Lunar New Year), families bow in the direction of their hometowns in North Korea.
There is also an observation platform at Imjingak. From here you can see the Imjin River and parts of North Korea. On clear days, the village of Kijong-dong, often called “Propaganda Village”, can be seen.
Despite all this tension, the South Korean side of the border has somehow turned into a tourist attraction. Buses making daily tours, students coming from different parts of the country and individual visitors like us. To be honest, I was expecting a more tense atmosphere before I came here, but what I saw surprised me a bit. Today, the DMZ is visited by more than 1.2 million people annually.
Ceasefire Agreement
The Korean War (1950-1953) officially ended with the Korean Armistice Agreement signed on July 27, 1953. However, this treaty is not a peace treaty, it only means the end of the hot war. Here are the important details of this historic treaty and the signed document.
Parties to the Armistice Agreement
- North Korea (Democratic People’s Republic of Korea)
- Chinese People’s Volunteer Army
- United Nations Command (UN Force) (Countries supporting South Korea, mainly the United States)
South Korean President Syngman Rhee did not sign the treaty because he wanted to continue the war with the goal of unifying all of Korea.
Today, about 28,500 US troops and thousands of South Korean soldiers guard the DMZ, making it one of the most militarized zones in the world. It is estimated that there are more than 2 million landmines throughout the zone. But wildlife has found a sanctuary in this demilitarized zone. The DMZ is home to a variety of wildlife, including endangered species such as the Amur leopard and the red-crowned crane.
It is a place of contrasts – pristine natural beauty next to barbed wire and hopes for peace combined with the constant tension between North and South Korea.
For me, the DMZ was not only a history lesson, but also a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit and the hope for a brighter future.
If you visit South Korea, the DMZ is not just a must-see; it is a journey into the heart of one of the most complex conflicts in modern history.
