As we flew from Seoul, the capital of South Korea, to Jeju Island in the south of the country on a cold December morning, our plans for the first day of diving changed frequently. Although Jeju Island has a milder climate, it would be stormy and cold on the dates we would be there.
As soon as we landed on the island, the cold wind mixed with the smell of iodine brought a chill to my face. This is the smell of the island blended with the ocean…
The streets are quiet in the morning as we pass through rows of houses with gardens paved with volcanic stones. The weather is cold and windy.
As soon as we entered the dive center, the smell of iodine was replaced by the smell of freshly brewed coffee. A short greeting and a rush for coffee. The students are excited and a bit nervous. Instead of diving from the boat, we decided to dive from the shore. Of course, we came prepared for the cold water. We opened our dive bags, our dry suit on top, ready for duty.
We drink coffee after coffee as if challenging our bladder…
As the wind increased, we decided to postpone the morning program a bit. Excited people were inside, and the steam from the coffee machine running nonstop was on the windows, and raindrops were outside…
Just then, a red scooter begging to be retired with its noise and a Korean aunt with a serious expression on her face at the wheel pulled up to the next apartment building. Three minutes later two more Korean aunts arrived. A little later, two or three more, and the team was complete. I was trying to figure out what was going on since I was not aware of the Haenyo’s existence until that day. While I was complaining about the cold in my dry suit, the 60s something aunts were already on the boat docked at the pier with their 1970s diving suits, masks and fins.
Who are the Haenyeos?
Haenyeo, Jeju’s famous female divers. These women, ranging in age from 40 to 80, dive deep into the ocean without modern diving equipment, wearing only traditional rubber wetsuits. When you watch them, you can see them catch their breath on the surface for a while and then disappear into the waves.
But why only women? Why this difficulty? This is where history comes in.
Jeju Island’s history is full of wars and hardships. Due to its strategic location close to the mainland of Korea, the island has been the scene of frequent wars and occupations. During the Japanese colonial period, the islanders faced heavy taxes and forced labor. In these harsh conditions, men either went to war or were sent to distant seas to fish.
The womens had to take full responsibility for providing for the families left behind. On this rocky island, where agriculture was limited, the sea became the only source of livelihood. This is where the Haenyeo originated: Women started diving into the depths of the ocean to support their homes and children.
This tradition has been passed down from generation to generation. The mother taught her daughter not only diving techniques, but also how to be one with the sea and how important it is to protect nature.
As the end of the day approached, we had finished our dives and were evaluating the day. At that moment, the boat carrying the Haenyo appeared in the distance. I immediately ran to the pier. My intention was to observe the Haenyo more closely, but suddenly I found myself helping them. In the hustle and bustle, I was receiving tasks in sign language that I couldn’t fully understand. Regardless of his age, he was taking the sack on his back, climbing the steps and leaving his load on the truck.
The rain has stopped, but the dry and strong wind continues.
In a very short time the Haenyos had already carried all the bags. It’s impossible not to see their fatigue. As she closed the last sack, she called me with her hands. I went immediately… She loosened the sack and gave me a seashell. We exchanged greetings… She carried the bag and finished the day.
It was one of the most meaningful gifts I’ve ever received. But out of the small shell popped a crab, first with antennae and then with tiny eyes. This shell was a crab’s home. I put it back in the ocean with its home where it belonged. Meeting the Haenyo was the most precious gift for me anyway.
The Haenyeos know what it means to use the ocean’s bounty sustainably. They plan their dives according to the lunar calendar, taking into account tides and weather conditions. They don’t collect more than necessary because they know that the sea must survive for future generations.
They work very diligently because they realize that their existence depends on the existence of the ocean.
Today, the Haenyeo tradition is in danger of disappearing. Younger generations are turning to less physically demanding jobs. And global warming and pollution threaten marine life.
But I still have hope. There are organizations and government support working to keep this culture alive. I hope these efforts will help keep the Haenyeo story alive and protect the oceans.
